WHEN Niso seafood restaurant closed its doors a little while back, I remember hoping for a fabulous eatery to sweep in and snap up its prime location on Joel Street's roundabout.

Soon the bright orange front of Indian restaurant Ashoka Tamba was lighting up the busy corner, and I was intrigued to find out what the lively looking newcomer had to offer Northwood locals.

With its kitsch decor of low level linen-covered seating, beautifully dressed tables and eyecatching details, including a coatstand and quirky chrome light fittings which seem to have taken inspiration from the old-fashioned hood hairdryer, the restaurant certainly looks shiny and new.

Staff are sweet, if a little jittery, but I put this down to the fact some will still be finding their Tamba feet. Three serving staff were managing to keep a Thursday night going steadily when I visited, but it's amazing how much difference a waiter with an impressively attentive eye can make to a meal, and a bit more surveillance would go a long way here.

Ashoka Tamba describes its cuisine as refined Indian cooking'. This means its menu is a nice manageable selection of unusual Asian dishes, a welcome change from the never-ending list of masalas, tikkas and biryanis of every description, which is often offered at Indian restaurants.

Starters include black tiger prawns with rose petals, spinach fritters with sweet potatoes and a South Indian pizza-style pancake.

I opted for Tandoori monk fish with tamarind, and my partner chose minced lamb kebabs with cheddar cheese, which arrived looking like almost the same dish, monk fish or lamb to the side, scoop of salad in the centre. The fish was a little tough to get through and heavily-spiced with tangy tamarind, but a nice, light option, and my partner very much enjoyed his cheesy lamb kebab.

Our main course consisted of shared dishes of duck breast in green herb chutney and coconut curry, chicken supreme in Karahi masala with chick peas, pilau rice and a Keema naan.

The duck dish was good - rich and creamy - but I particularly liked the chunkier texture of the chicken Karahi, provided by plenty of chickpeas. The rice was as you would expect, but we were impressed by the huge naan bread, which arrived warm, spilling out of its basket, and filled with a good layer of mince.

Between fiery mouthfuls, my partner sipped on a traditional Indian Cobra beer (the perfect accompaniment to a curry, he assures me), while I got through two very agreeable white wine spritzers, served in a glass with enough room to house a goldfish.

We cooled down with a couple of scoops of ice cream for dessert, and brought our tastebuds from India back to Middlesex with a nice cup of tea.

Ashoka Tamba has a few cracks to iron out, but the foundations of a crowd-pleasing Indian restaurant with a twist are definitely there. Long may it keep hold of its corner.

Asoka Tamba is located at 1-3 Joel Street, Northwood Hills, Middlesex, HA6 1NU. Call 01923 820 070.

The bill

Monk fish £6 - Lamb kebab £5 - Duck breast £8.50 - Chicken Karahi £8 - Rice £2.25 - Naan £2.25 - Tea x 2 £3 - Ice cream x 2 £5 - Wine x 2 £7 - Beer £2.95

Total £49.95(excluding service)

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