Food and drink
Medieval mosaic
The southern French wine regions of Languedoc and Roussillon offer visitors striking rugged landscapes, fascinating history and exciting wines to match the hearty local cuisine of wild boar stew and the ubiquitous cassoulet (a casserole of dried beans and meat). Some of the villages are genuine medieval jewels, surprisingly well-preserved.
With its 300,000 hectares of vineyards, the region had a reputation for producing cheap wine. But, for some years, enthusiastic producers have been striving to improve quality and obtain recognition for their wines: Minervois was granted AC in 1985 and St-Chinian in 1982 and so best illustrate the trend. The red grapes Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre dominate the vineyards.
In the gentle, rolling hills above the Aude Valley and straddling the departements of Herault and Aude lies the Minervois region. The village of Minerve derives its name from Minerva, the Roman goddess of wisdom. The Romans brought their native vines from Italy and the Church maintained the tradition of winemaking after the departure of the legions.
Extending between Carcassonne and Narbonne, Minervois covers 18,000 hectares. Of these only some 4,000 hectares produce Minervois AC wines; the rest are used for vins de pays. The vineyards, in the shape of an amphitheatre, with rivers running south dividing the region into a mosaic of different terroirs, produce a variety of wine styles. Within the region, the wind causes further variation of climate - Le Marin is humid and usually brings rain from the northwest, whereas Le Cers from the southwest is cooler and drier.
Although Minervois wines can be red, rosé or white, the latter represents a mere three per cent of the total AOC (wines of controlled origin) production.
Extending over five villages and 2,600 hectares, the new village appellation Minervois La Livinière, approved in 1999, is the first of its kind in the Languedoc and sets high standards. The red wines, made from Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, with some Carignan and Cinsault, fully express the Mediterranean warmth with notes of red berries, black olives, liquorice and spiciness. Minervois La Liviniere wines must obtain 12 per cent alcohol and be aged for 15 months before being bottled.
In the northeast, the peaceful village of St-Jean-de-Minervois has its own appellation for a Muscat de St-Jean-de-Minervois. The wine is drunk young so the fruit may be enjoyed at its best.
About 30km northwest of Beziers, the region takes its name from the picturesque village of St-Chinian, in memory of a monk called Anian who settled there in the Ninth Century and founded the vineyards. The appellation covers some 3,000 hectares producing red, a little rosé and white wine.
The difference is further emphasised because of the soil. In the north, the flaky schist, where forests alternate with vineyards, produces fruity wines with mineral notes for early drinking. In the south, Mediterranean garrigue (an aromatic blend of thyme, lavender, juniper and rosemary coloured in spring with patches of yellow broom) flourish on the clay limestone soil for fuller and firmer wines benefiting from bottle age.
The proximity of the mountains gives extra protection from the north wind and mimosa and orange trees grow in the sheltered picture-postcard village of Roquebrun, known as "le Petit Nice". The local co-operative produces stunning red wines from Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan grapes.
A little white St-Chinian from Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Rolle or Vermentino is also produced.
By Lilyane Weston
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