Food and drink
Not posh or stuffy, just good
HAVING spent the last week in Tuscany eating like only the Italians do, gorging on prosciutto, parmigiano and pasta, it's fair to say my gastro bar had been set pretty high, and if I'm honest I feared Hunters of Cockfosters would have their work cut out for them.
Arriving at the North London eatery nestled within an unassuming parade of shops close to the tube, I was impressed to see at just gone 6pm on Tuesday evening there were already hungry patrons filing through the doors.
Once inside, we were met by the jolly George, who informed us he was affectionately known as the old man' to his son and the restaurant owner Louis Loizou and then escorted us to our seats.
After settling ourselves at our table we quickly forget we were sitting within spitting distance of a busy road in Cockfosters. The large airy room was neatly arranged with tables covered in crisp white tableclothes, while the walls were painted to assume the appearance of a Grecian villa complete with views of beautiful rolling hills.
However, unlike the relaxed approach most European waiters adopt to their customers, within minutes the equally neat waiting staff in matching beige waistcoats were quickly on hand to enhance our dining experience, offering suggestions and taking our drinks order.
It took my friend and I a considerable amount of time to make our way through the vast international menu as we perused the various French, Greek and Italian dishes, and tried to decided whether to opt for fish, pasta, chicken, veal or steaks, and then there were the specials of the day to take into account as well!
Finally I settled on avocado with prawns for starters, followed by the special of sole fillet stuffed with spinach and smoked salmon in a cream and champagne sauce. At £17.95 is was the most expensive dish on offer that night, but hey, we were on holiday for the evening. My friend decided on the calamari fritti and the pepper sirloin steak, which at £14.50 was pretty reasonable.
Our appetizers arrived promptly and we were both equally pleased with our choices, although I have to say the calamari frittis may have just pipped my dish. With a light batter, they were perfectly fried and tasted fresh and meaty, with a good tartar sauce for dipping.
On to round two, and again, it would be hard to pick a winner. Both were superb. My sole fillet was beautifully cooked and worked well with the spinach and salmon, while the champagne sauce was a stroke of genius. The steak was big and juicy, just how it should be, and generously covered in a thick pepper sauce. Slicing into the meat my friend exclaimed "perfect", as she examined its texture.
Combined with the sides of sautéed potatoes, mushrooms, onion rings and asparagus, we were truly beaten (much to my friend's horror who found it difficult to admit to defeat and give up the last morsel of her steak).
Taking a moment to recover we eyed a rather impressive dessert trolley in the corner of the room and suddenly discovered we both had extra stomachs to fit in a homemade crème brulee and bramley apple pie (which, if I were to make any criticism would have been better hot).
By the time we were slurping on our coffees, the room was filling up and there was a pleasant buzz in the air as smartly dressed locals arrived with friends and family in tow.
Before we left we had the pleasure of meeting Louis himself, who showed up at our table in his chef's whites proudly proclaiming he had become a grandad as his daughter's rabbit had given birth - meaning rabbit would forever be banned from future menus.
Commenting on the number of patrons, Louis explained that he would like more people to come through the doors, but suggested many were put off because they worried it looked to posh.
Well, speaking as a well-fed customer who will be returning, I can safely say there was not a snobby bone in this restaurant. While it might deliver five star service and cuisine, it was not stuffy or pretentious, rather it offered a friendly, family-orientated atmosphere to while away an evening with good company, good wine and even better food.
Hunters of Cockfosters, 12-13 Heddon Court Parade, Cockfosters Road, Barnet, Hertforshire. Details: 020 8449 5125 or www.hunters-restaurant.co.uk
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