Hampstead Lock in Camden

Step out of Warwick Avenue tube station, turn left, then a quick right, another left, over the bridge and you will find yourself stepping out of the usual London bustle and into the peace and tranquility of the capital's Regent's Canal.

This beautiful waterway and all its inhabitants were just waking up when I arrived, armed with map and walking boots (not really necessary but I like to make the effort), ready to embark on a circular walk from Little Venice and taking in the bustling centre of Camden Lock and all the impressive vistas that Primrose Hill has to offer.

This is one of many walks devised by British Waterways as part of its campaign to encourage people to rediscover their canals and rivers. It is a worthy cause - half of the UK's population lives within five miles of our waterways but only three per cent are currently visiting them - and they really are missing out. Thanks to a healthy injection of funding from the government, the lottery and British Waterways over recent years, the canal system has been given a new lease of life, so if you think they are just murky backwaters clogged up with shopping trolleys and litter, you are in for a surprise.

I began with a rejuvenating cup of coffee on board the quaint Waterside Café boat, moored up next to Westbourne Terrace Road Bridge where the walk begins. From there I crossed over the water onto the opposite towpath and made my way along and under the delightful Café Laville that sits over the canal, giving its guests a bird's eye view as the canal meanders into the distance.

Here you have to leave the towpath and cross the busy Edgware Road and into Aberdeen Place but the path soon takes you down a flight of steep steps and back on track. A short walk on and the northern edges of Regent's Park come into view. John Nash, the man responsible for laying out the park, originally intended for the Regent's Canal to run through its middle but was persuaded against it for fear that the bad language of the Navvies would offend the refined residents of the area'*. He also had plans to construct 56 villas in Regent's Park but only eight were built. However, the walk takes you past a collection of striking white villas that were built during the late 1980s and early 1990s to his original designs and are well worth taking note of.

Continuing along the towpath and soon Lord Snowdon's futuristic aviary at London Zoo will rise up in front of you, filling the air with exotic bird calls. Children will love this as the walk takes you close to the cage so that you can have a good look at the strange looking feathered creatures within.

Further on, take a left at the curious floating restaurant Feng Shang Chinese and then make the decision either to continue the walk or make a quick detour to Camden Lock, which I strongly recommend.

Camden is a nucleus of all that is weird and wonderful about London. Hippies, punks and goths live together in harmony and there is plenty to keep you occupied, even if it is simply enjoying a cup of coffee on the lockside and watching this colourful world go about its business. Camden is renowned for its markets, with stalls offering anything from incense burners, handmade jewellery, trendy one-off outfits and second hand books to the quaint little corner shop selling specialist wooden games. A particular favourite of mine were the food halls, where you can take your pick of an array of cuisines from around the world, sold in polystyrene trays at around £3.50 a go that are extremely tasty and great value for money. For a more formal, sit down meal, try the Gilgamesh restaurant and lounge at The Stables Market which serves tasty Thai cuisine and is well worth a visit if for nothing more than to marvel at the decorative wood carvings that adorn every wall.

If this is enough walking for you, hop on board the Regent's Canal Waterbus (www.londonwaterbus.com) which will take you back to Little Venice.

But I was keen to see what Primrose Hill had to offer so I retraced my steps along the towpath and took my leave of the canal at the bridge just past the Pirate Castle. The route is now through the residential streets around Regent's Park and is designed to take you past the former homes of the city's more famous residents. One such place, the rather charming Chalcot Square with its rows of terraced housing in various pastel shades, is where the poet and writer Sylvia Plath lived and where, in February 1963, she eventually ended her life.

After several twists and turns, the route took me into the picturesque green space that is Primrose Hill where, at the top, I was treated to a panoramic view of the London skyline. I took a well earned rest here drinking it all in before heading out of the park to pound more of London's streets, this time in the well-to-do area of St John's Wood, eventually passing the mighty Lord's Cricket Ground, home of England's cricket since 1813. Onwards and another home of note, this time that of Sir Joseph Bazalgette at number 17 Hamilton Terrace. The name might not ring any bells but he is the civil engineer responsible for designing and building the hundreds of miles of the capital's underground sewers. It is claimed that he saved more lives than any other single Victorian public official so is certainly worthy of the short pilgrimage to his former home.

The final part of the walk takes you along the upmarket high street of St John's Wood and onto Clifton Gardens where eventually you will meet up with Warwick Avenue tube station and the circle is complete. Just in time for a refreshing cup of tea back at the Waterside Café.

For more information on the waterways and what they have to offer, visit www.waterscape.com or call 01923 201120 for a booklet.

* Taken from the British Waterways London walking booklet to the Little Venice Circular Walk.

Canal Facts

London's waterways receive 33 million visits each year. The country's inland waterways bring more than £1.5 billion in visitor income each year

The waterways flow through 15 London boroughs and six million Londoners live within five miles of one of the waterways

Three per cent of London is covered by water

British Waterways cares for 100 miles of canals and rivers and 110 acres of docks in London

The capital boasts 95 waterside pubs

It cares for 62 listed structures, four scheduled ancient monuments and four sites of special scientific interest

It is also the third largest custodian of listed structures after the National Trust and the church

4:50pm Thursday 24th April 2008

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