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Alice Eaton reviews the new menu at the recently revamped Hampstead pub The Flask

FOR some time, The Flask in Hampstead was in danger of becoming the rather shabby poor cousin to the numerous swanky bars and eateries that line this highly polished part of London. And as well as being a smudge on the village landscape, worse still, it was at risk of losing loyal punters if there wasn't some swift pulling up of socks.

So Young's, in its wisdom, took this historic public house in hand, spent a healthy £750,000 and gave the interiors a much-needed facelift. Thankfully, care has been taken to retain its olde worlde charm and the building's striking 19th-century fireplaces, tiling and wood panelling have been carefully returned to their original condition. In essence, it is still a drinking man's pub but hopefully it should start attracting some younger clientele now too.

The menu has also been given a complete revamp and now offers a rather unusual Victorian-inspired selection to remain in keeping with the newly restored Victorian decor. Diners can chomp away on platters of cockles, mussels and jellied eels or tuck into a traditional Victorian Po-Boy - an oyster sandwich - and can be proud that they are continuing a great culinary tradition. There is also reference to the traditional London chophouses of the 1800s, with pork chops, lamb cutlets and sirloin steaks sourced locally from family-run butchers Steele Of Hampstead.

There seems to be no exclusive eating area as such and, on a Thursday night, we were seated by the kitchen among various groups enjoying a quiet evening drink, which worked well. Among the starters on offer were smoked haddock kedgeree, a warm black pudding and poached egg and salad and a dish of wild mushrooms on toast. I opted for the Suffolk pork and ham terrine which came in neat and tasty circular slices on a bed of salad and drenched in a chunky homemade piccalilli sauce. I found the sheer amount of pickle slightly overpowering and it overwhelmed the meat a little but others might prefer a good amount of condiment as an accompaniment.

My partner chose soup of the day from the specials board which was a delicious and very warming leek and potato soup, perfectly seasoned, with slices of crusty bread to mop it up. He followed this with a 12oz 24-day-aged British sirloin steak that was cooked beautifully pink as requested and drizzled with a light peppercorn sauce. This was served with crunchy chips in their skins and seasonal vegetables which turned out to be mushrooms and a rather surprising choice of grilled beef tomato.

I chose my main from the specials board and ordered oxtail and roasted vegetable cottage pie. Although delicious, the presentation was poor. The dish came as a white mound of mash topped with cheese, under which I had to search for the morsels of meat and occasional roasted veg. I realise this is meant to be traditional hearty pub fare but perhaps a smaller portion served in a neat earthenware dish with a side order of veggies would be more appetising.

I was floored by the size of my main but my partner had room for a dessert. The choice was mouthwatering - classic English trifle, double chocolate brownie, and baked rice pudding with a fruit compote. He opted for a zesty deep treacle tart drenched in a delicious whisky cream that ended the meal perfectly while I enjoyed a refreshing pot of camomile tea.

This is a cosy London pub serving traditional British food that fills the boots and warms the heart. Well worth a visit.

The Flask can be found at Flask Walk in Hampstead. Call 020 7435 4580 or visit www.theflaskhampstead.co.uk

The bill

Total £43.05 (excluding service)

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